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WAR OF LAKSA
Text by Lee Jie
Malaysia is blessed with an abundance of food and it’s something that we’re proud of. One of the signature dishes is LAKSA! However, did you know that laksa actually has many different varieties?
Be it at a fancy hotel buffet or a roadside stall, laksa is one of the homeliest dishes you can find in every corner of Malaysia.
So if you are looking to start on your ‘laksa discovery journey’, let’s check this guide out!
Curry Laksa
In the south of Peninsular Malaysia (Johor/Melaka), curry laksa is mostly sold by the Chinese community and it does not contain fish, but with other ingredients like fishcake, fresh cockles (see hum), tofu and tofu pok (bean curd puffs).
Curry laksa is thick and rich, with just a hint of sweetness from the addition of thick coconut milk.
It is commonly served with yellow noodles and bee hoon. In Penang, curry mee consists of congealed pork blood!
If you enjoy an extra kick, you may serve your curry laksa with a spoonful of aromatic sambal chili paste as a condiment.
Assam Laksa (Penang Laksa)
Originated from Penang Island, Assam Laksa is a sour, fish-based soup that originated. It was listed by CNN Go as the 7th of the World’s 50 Most Delicious Foods in 2011.
There is no coconut milk in its broth, which instead is made of fish and torch ginger flower. Torch ginger flower is a uniquely Southeast Asian spice that gives it a special spicy taste.
Assam laksa is usually served with rice noodles and topped with a variety of fresh herbs and garnishes such as pineapple, shredded cucumber, mint, and red chilis.
Johor Laksa
The main distinction of Johor Laksa is its use of pasta instead of rice noodles.
According to one story, after visiting Italy, Sultan Abu Bakar, who had enjoyed some pasta there, instructed his chefs to switch out the traditional noodles for the pasta, and Johor laksa was born.
Apart from the pasta, Johor laksa consists of coconut milk, dried prawns, lemongrass, kerisik, galangal and spices.
The garnishing comprises cucumber, beansprouts, onion, long beans, Thai basil, mint leaves, pickled white radish and Vietnamese coriander. The cucumber is sliced in short, circular strips before being cut into julienne.
Some Johor locals prefer enjoying their laksa with their hands rather than eating with utensils.
Sarawak Laksa
Sarawak laksa was praised by Anthony Bourdain as the “Breakfast of the Gods’’.
At first glance, Sarawak laksa looks like a curry-based noodle dish. However, you’ll be surprised to learn that there’s usually no curry involved at all! Instead, the base of the broth is made with a plethora of aromatic local spices (such as galangal and lemongrass) and sambal belacan, a popular chili paste made using shrimp paste, garlic, chilies, and lime juice.
Coconut milk is then added to the broth to thicken it and give it that extra dimension of creamy goodness.
Sarawak laksa used Bee Hoon, shredded omelet, beansprouts,prawns and chicken strip, with sambal and a squeeze of lime.
Nyonya Laksa (Laksa lemak)
Nyonya laksa is a traditional dish that was invented by the Peranakan community in Malacca.
Its creamy broth is made with coconut milk, prawn shells, and chicken bones and served with noodles, fresh prawns, fishcake, beancurd puffs, fresh vegetables, and boiled egg.
Fun fact: Nyonya laksa is also known as Laksa Lemak, which means ‘fatty laksa’’ in Malay.
Laksam
Laksam is one of the laksa in Malaysia that can be found in Kedah, Kelantan dan Terengganu.
The thick and creamy gravy is made from boiled mackerel, coconut milk, tamarind, lemongrass, onions and dried assam.
Laksam is served with white rice noodles topped with fish-based coconut milk gravy and served with ulam (raw herb and vegetable salad) and sambal.
Just like Johor Laksa, some locals in Kedah, Kelantan and Terenggany enjoy Laksam with their hands as the gravy is so thick and rich.